The source of these dimensions is an old C# chanter, possibly a Harrington, owned by Kevin Rowsome of Dublin Ireland, grandson of the late Leo Rowsome the famous pipe maker. I spent 2 days measuring this chanter when Kevin taught at Irish Week at the Augusta Heritage Center in Elkins, West Virginia USA in 1997. In my lessons I played the first production Concert D "Rowsome" Penny-Chanter and Kevin was quite favorable to it. Kevin shared his C# chanter with all the students who unanimously pronounced it appealing to hear and well-behaved to play.
and Bell (mm)
If you're willing to work a little harder at construction, you can make a very accurate reproduction of a chanter by cutting each of the tube bottoms at a steep angle just like the Penny-Chanter upper bore piece, following the taper of the bore plot faithfully along with any wobbles. The chanter will tune somewhat flatter in the 1st octave compared to a step-bored construction, owing to the removal of airspace in the steps.
This upper bore is easily made, using 2 pieces of tubing. Their bottoms
are cut at an angle so as to approximate the behavior of the tapered
bore in the original wood chanter. The innermost or Throat Tube consist
of a medium length cylinder with a long tapered tail, and is fixed partway
into the next larger or Upper Bore Tube. The Upper Bore Tube reaches from
the head of the chanter down part way to the back D or thumb hole, and
also has a taper. The reed is hemped and will slide, for tuning purposes,
within the Upper Bore Tube between the chanter top and the throat. Some
authorities believe that this "Reed Seat" region should be as
narrow and smooth as possible. Accordingly an extra tube of the same diameter
as the Throat Tube can be installed above it, extending to the top of the
chanter, providing a narrow reed tuning slide.
Beware of leakage around the outside of the Throat Tube. Its cylindrical section is so short that there may not be an effective seal between it and the Upper Bore Tube. Creative gluing; perhaps a thicker modelmaking glue, may be necessary to achieve an airtight seal. Leakage here will increase the chance of gurgling bottom D and probably some other performance problems.
|Tube Name||Outside Diameter||Cylinder Length||Tail Length||Taper Type||Location of Top|
|Reed Seat||7/32"||12 mm||0||--||0 mm|
|Throat Insert||3/16"||8 mm
|Throat Tube||7/32"||28 mm||35 mm||Slight concave||368 mm|
Note: Notes are named as though chanter is in the key of D.
|[ C' ]||237||.|
Staple is 0.015 sheet, best in brass since annealed copper this thin
is a bit weak.
Length of blank = 52mm
Eye end width = 10.6mm
Throat end width = 12.5mm straight tapered sides.
When rolled, the tube diameters are about 3mm up to 3.6mm.
Squash the eye down to 1.3mm ID min, ( gives about 2.05mm ID min)
Cane head is square with rounded knees.
Cane slip: 100mm long 1mm thick, sanded to ID = 45mm ( about 22 to 23mm tube used), width = 10.8mm
Cut in to 2 by 50mm head pieces and put knees 25mm down from the top.
Tie up the reed to slightly over 80mm and finish back to just under 80mm.
If you want it a bit less strident take the head width down to 10.2mm and make the eye min a little bigger.
David Daye: in my experience the slight taper of the staple tunes and performs noticeably better than a straight cylinder of the same basic diameter.
Still under development. Flat chanters take rather small narrow reeds. Present efforts:
Click here to see extensive photos
and some diagrams of the reed-making process. This, too, is an incomplete
work in progress!
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